Questions and answers about 3D printers, filament and assorted accessories and materials.
Nominally, the length for ABS is around 400m and for PLA it is 345m but this can vary depending on the desnity of the ABS/PLA plastic, color, water content, etc.
First, if you have any other brand of filament that you know for a fact works, then run that through and see how your print comes out. This will show you if it's the filament or the printer.
This is just a general rule as you will usually have to make slight changes to settings for different filament brands and colors, but if the difference between the two printouts is like a night and day difference, then it could be the filament.
If it is the filament, then try bumping up your temperature by 5 degrees or so. When we’ve tried out new filament from different manufacturers, we experienced the issue described when our print temperature was too low. Usually, bumping up the temperature gets the filament melting at the right temperature and fixes the issue.
Another point to consider is that some printers can give inaccurate readings. One example is the Solidoodle. I bought one a year or so ago, and when the software showed 200C, it was really at about 230C. So try to find out if that is a known issue or not for your printer.
Is the layer splitting occurring at the perimeter layers, infill layers, or both? If it's the infill, you may need to slow down the head or increase the amount extruded. If it's both, then it may be the temperature, but if it's just one or the other, then it may be head speed or the extrusion rate. If you have the ability to adjust the head speed and extrusion rate on the fly while printing, try slowing down the head speed while it's printing and see if that makes the printout any better.
If your machine has an idler arm and bearing to apply pressure on the filament line, then make sure there is enough pressure there so that the printer isn't being starved of filament. You may see evidence of this if you see filament "dust" gathered around the filament feed gear.
Also make sure the file you are printing is one you have printed successfully before, as broken or corrupt files can cause the same effect of bad layer adhesion due to the odd travel paths the software tries to create.
The above is a general guide, it not being possible to cover the quirks of all printers, and so makes troubleshooting these kinds of issues a bit more difficult, especially for those who have printers that require a lot of user input. A suggestion would be to find a forum that's dedicated to your printer, where others will most likely have had the same or similar issues you may be having and can offer solutions.
When using the Octave 2 temperature setting switch on the Afinia H series printer, please set the printer for PLA and leave the switch on A for Afinia. This setting is for bypass leaving the extruder at the regular print setting. The same (i.e. set to bypass) is recommended when using any of the Octave temperature switches.
Yes, the Octave multi setting nozzle temperature switch will work with the UP! plus 2 3D printer.
Yes! The standard warranty is 1 year parts and labor. A second year, extended warranty can be purchased for $199.
All technical support issues are handled here in the U.S.A. Replacement or spare parts also come from our U.S. location.
The Afinia printer has a 12 month parts and labor, US factory based warranty. You can read the full warranty Below. Compare this to the competition.
Below is the one-year limited warranty included with this Afinia product. Afinia prides itself on its outstanding product line and its technical support. If for some reason, your product fails, Afinia, a division of Microboards Technology, LLC, stands behind its warranties and assures you the best service possible in a quick and timely manner.
Afinia warrants to the original purchaser that thisproduct is free from defects in material and workmanship
Afinia will for one year, at its option, repair or replace at no charge for parts and labor from the date you urchased the product from an authorized Afinia reseller. Nozzles and Cell/Perf Boards are warranted
for ninety (90) days.
• Warranty registration must be completed within 30 days of receipt of the product in order to validate the warranty.
• Afinia, a division of Microboards Technology, LLC, reserves the right to determine the validity of all warranty claims.
• Warranty is void if the product serial number has been altered or removed.
• Warranty is void if the product has been misused or damaged or if evidence is present that the product was altered, modified, or serviced by unauthorized service people.
The above stated warranty is exclusive and replaces all other warranties, express of implied, including those of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. Afinia, a division of Microboards Technology, LLC, will not be liable for any other damages or loss, including incidental or consequential damages and loss of profits or revenues from whatever cause, including breach of warranty or negligence.
This product has been thoroughly tested and inspected at the factory prior to shipment. Nevertheless, inspect your product completely for any damage or loss of parts that may have occurred during shipment. Notify the delivering carrier promptly if damage claims are to be filed.
Afinia reserves the right to modify or update its product without obligation to replace any equipment delivered prior to any such change.
STL files such as those created by Solid Works, AutoCad, Google SketchUP (Free)
1. First, turn on the printer and the computer software, and initialize the printer.
2. Next, you'll need to load a model into the software, any model is fine, just make sure it's all confined to the build space.
3. Next, click "3D Print" and select "print preview."
4. In the "print" window box that popped up there should be on the right side of the window an area labeled as "Nozzle Height" with a window that you can change the number value for. Change this number to about 135. This will give you about all moveable range, but you must be careful as 135 travel will allow the nozzle to hit the bed. Optimally you want your max to be right around the same number that you use for the nozzle height adjustment. So for example, the demo machine here tends to be set for 132.8 for the nozzle height and has a max travel value of 134. Now click "ok" button. (This is important as it is the only way the system saves the new value).
5. Now click "3D Print" and select "stop print"
6. Click "3D Print" and select "Maintenance"
7. The "to" field in the maintenance window where you adjust the nozzle height should be now adjustable up to whatever value you input earlier into the "nozzle height" field.
5.5” x, 5.5” x 5.25” or 140mm x 140mm x 133mm
The Afinia and UP! 3D printers offer resolutions of 0.15mm (150 microns or 0.006"), 0.2mm, 0.25mm, 0.3mm, and 0.4mm
The UP! mini offers resolutions of 0.2mm (200 microns or 0.008”), 0.25mm, 0.3mm, and 0.35mm
www.thingiverse.com is a 3D community site that has well over 20,000 models that you can download for free and print. There are some other sites that charge a small fee to download files.
ABS and you can also use PLA.
About $35 a kilo (2.2lbs) and it comes in 18 colors in regular, as well as glow-in-the-dark and fluorescent.
Yes, and you can find how it works here:
You can print as many objects as will fit in the build area of the platform. They can be copies of the same object or each one a different object.
Yes Windows XP, Vista, W7 and Mac OS.
No. Once a job has started printing you can work on other programs. You can even disconnect the printer as the model you are printing (file) resides in the printer.
Since they weigh about 5 grams, you could print about 200 from a 1Kg reel.
You can change filament during a print job by pausing the printer and switching out the filament, then resume printing.
You would have to scan it with a 3D scanner and convert the output to an STL file.
RepRap machines are more for the hobbyist and are a hodge podge of different hardware and software with no technical support except in forums. The Afinia is a complete system with integrated hardware, firmware and software. It also comes with live technical support in the U.S.
The Cubify is essentially a copy of the Afinia and has just started shipping (late June 2012). While slightly less initial cost than the Afinia, it is a lot more expensive to run because the filament cost is four or five times that of the Afinia filament. It uses proprietary filament cartridges that cannot be refilled by the user. The Afinia is also twice as fast as the Cubify.
Sorry no. Try selling it on eBay.
110°C for the platform and 255°C for the nozzle.
The H-Series 3D printer, cables, software, a 1.5 lbs (.7kg) of filament starter spool, and platform adhesive. It also comes with a set of work gloves and hand tools. The hand tools include: woodcut knife, screws, scraper, pliers, brush, nozzle wrench, hex wrench, and tweezers.
It’s very simple. The printer comes with a step by step setup manual. Loading the software, plugging in a USB cable, and importing an STL file are all explained thoroughly.
On first use, you need to manually calibrate the height of the platform by raising it close to the print head before you can start printing. There is a utility in the software that guides you through the process, and once it is done the settings are stored in the printer memory so it doesn’t have to be done again.
Octave filament has a fairly wide melt temperature range but it is optimized at between 240 and 245 degrees C. MakerBots and other manufacturers’ machines allow the user to set the nozzle or extruder temperature.
As of December 2012 these are the differences:
ROM updater only works with PC.
Checkbox to auto-place models upon loading from STL - on PC only.
CTRL+MouseLeft to move model on XY in envelope – PC only
NEW platform leveling utility developed for UP! Mini – PC only.
If feasible, these features will be implemented in the Mac version shortly.
Yes. You can call +1.952.279.2643 M-F 8-5CST or email [email protected].